Visit Neelum Valley - Azad Kashmir

Muzaffarabad:

Muzaffarabad is not only the hub of political and cultural activities, but also has various spots for leisure. Domel, the junction point of Neelum & Jhelum Rivers, presents a magic beauty from here. At the right bank of River Jhelum near this site, an established “Food Point” offers the delicacy of the famous “Kashmiri Cuisine” and other varieties of local traditional dishes of Kashmiri origin. "Lohaar Gali" situated 9 kilometers from the city on Abbottabad road, offers a bird eye view of the capital city. At night, the lights of the city present an unforgettable scene from this point

Muzaffarabad's Forts: 
There are two historical forts, the Red Fort and the Black fort situated at the opposite side of the Neelum river.Black Fort: The Mughals built this fort above the river junction but it's used by the army and is off limits to visitorsRed Fort:

During the year 1549 the construction of the red fort was undertaken. The red fort was finally completed by Sultan Muzaffar Khan, the founder of Muzaffarabad city during 1646. When the Mughals overtook the Kahsmir rule, this fort lost its importance. The Mughals were more interested in Kabul, Bokhara and Badakshan. During the Durrani rule the fort again came into limelight and its importance was rediscovred.

Maharaja Gulab Signh and Ranbir Singh, the Dogra rulers, reconstructed and extended the fort for political and military operations. Towards the end of 1947 the Dogra forces filed away leaving the fort wide open to anybody.

The architectonics of the fort show that great experts in design and structure participated in its construction. It is surrounded on three sides by Neelum river formally known as Kishan Ganga. The northern part had terraces with steps leading to the bank of the river. The Eastern side of the fort was very well protected from the hazards of flood waters but some parts in the north were slightly damaged. There was an inn at the entry of the fort which has traces left now. It has been in the bad shape for quite some time and wears deserted look. The structure still stands with all its inherent glory, grandeur and its historical background.

Pir Chanasi:

Pir Chinasi is a large mountain with an altitude of 2924 meters above the sea level located on 32 km east of Muzaffarabad city overlooking vast expanses of Azad Kashmir. Due to its tremendous scenic beauty, velvet green plateaus and wonderful climate, it wins admiration of nature lovers. This place is also visited by tourists who can get a great view of Muzaffarabad and rural areas around the hidden city. Adjacent to Pirchinassi is Pirassimaar, so beautiful yet unexplored!

The views of the summit of the neighboring mountain peaks spell bounds a tourist.

The adjacent Pir Asimar, phawna da Danna and the areas in the bottom of pir chinassi, i.e. Saran, Sud Bun, Muskhi, Sakki and Jarran phirran are also worth seen and ideal for hiking, trekking and camping activities.

Shaheed Gali:

The comely beauty of the place attracts a restive mind to prolong his stay. This picturesque Shaheed Gali is situated at the height of about 1640 meters above sea level at a distance of about 16 kilometer westward from Muzaffarabad. From Shaheed Gali is a trek of 4 Kms leads towards a wholesome spot namely “Sri Kot”. A tourist is bound to be fascinated by the serenity for the backdrop of the area. A Tourist Rest House is available for accommodation at Shaheed Gali.
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Patika: 
Patika is located at a distance of 19 Km from Muzaffarabad, is a gateway to Neelum valley. There is also A mini zoo and a fish hatchery. Tourism Department has constructed a Tourist Rest House here, which is very popular among tourists.

Kundal Shahi:

Kundal Shahi is a village that is located in the Neelam valley, at an elevation of approximately 1,350 meters above sea level, at the point where the Jagran Nallah joins the Neelam River. The distance from Muzaffarabad, the capital of Azad Jammu and Kashmir, to Kundal Shahi is some 74 kilometers by road. The Line of Control (LoC), which separates the Indian-administered part of  Kashmir from the Pakistani-administered part, runs through, or close to, the Neelam valley, at some points right along the river and at other points across the mountains on the left side of the river. At Kundal Shahi, the LoC is removed by a few kilometers from the bank of the Neelam River. This makes Kundal Shahi a relatively safe place as far as cross-border shelling is concerned, and for this reason the tehsil headquarters, formerly in Authmuqam 10 kilometers up the valley, have been shifted in recent years to Kundal Shahi.

Kundal Shahi, also a small commercial centre and being the commericial centre of the area it is congested and over crowded .Kundal Shahi is also operational centre of the Azad Kashmir. Kundal Shahi station has a rest house manned by the logging and saw mills at the Western bank of river Neelum adjacent to metalled road. From this place a visit can be planned to the loveliest part of the Neelum Valley, commonly known as Jagran Valley

 Jagran:

From kundal shahi a link road leads to kutton, jagran and  other tops. A forest range bifurcates from Kundal Shahi to Jagra Nullah which is a mini river running all the year round. Its water is glass-like limpid having good potential for trout fish development. The forests are so thick in the range that a trip to the range would be like going through a tunnel. It is tunnel of forest indeed.

Jagran Nullah (stream) is indispensable and plays pivotal role in the formation of its landscape beauty and charm which reveals the richness of the area. On the side lane of the impressive Tourists Resort the ever flowing greenish and surf gushing waters of Jagran Nullah add to its peculiar character. Jagran Nullah, rushing downwards all along the tall grooves of trees is almost small river. Surrounded by scintillating beauty under the shades of the majestic snow-clad mountains the river is freezing cold. The snowmelt of these sky heights named “Jagran Nullah” is also know for trout fishing attracting angles all over the seasons.In Jagran places like kutton, Thunian, Ghansee and Pattlian Sar are worth-seeing and inviting everyone to visit and enjoy. Jagran is ideal for mountaineers and takers too. Here the mountains are ranging from 4000 feet to 1400 feet above sea level. The ever green forests are stretched in the far flung lush green plateaus with abundance of wildlife. Gradual and fathering of uphill distance is encountered with the pleasant and soothing environ which never fades into memory.

A small hydro electric power is installed on the right bank of Jagra Nullah stream in Jagran which  provide eletricity to kundal shahi and Athmuqam.  At the end of  jagran hilly tops reflect amazing scenes and are worth to see.

Kutton:

Kutton is situated 10 km from Kundal Shahi. A road going west follows the Jagran River and climbs up to Kutton. There are some rest houses belonging to Azad Kashmir Tourism department, and rest houses belonging to the hydro project management. A hatchery for Trout fish is established by the fisheries department. The rest house is built over the Jagran River, and there is a constant roar of river flowing below. The rest house is surrounded by lush green forest, surrounded by snow covered mountains. The October 8, 2005 earthquake totally devastated this area, and most houses we saw were rebuilt. The Jagran River is said to be filled with trout, and several trout hatcheries have been built near Kuttan and Kundal Shahi.

The bewitching beauty of Kutton permeated in the radius of 10 kilometers, makes Jagran Valley. From here 16 Kms onward, Thunian, Ghainsi and Jagran are located which are worth seeing spots for nature lovers and adventure seekers.

A long a beautiful series of Himaliya's mountain starts from here to Kaghan, Skardu and Chillas. 
In winter season is very chill and heavy snow falls but in summer the weather becomes charming and Cool.
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Athmuqam:

Athmuqam is situated at a height of 1371m, it is the sub-divisional headquarters of the area. It is located at a distance of 80 Kms from Muzaffarabad and connected by metalled Neelam road with Muzaffarabad. It is named Athmuqam because it is 8th station from Muzaffarabad to upper valley. It is an attractive place known for its variety of fruit. All necessary facilities via bazaars, post offices, banks, hospitals, and telephone exchanges are present.

The rest house, built at the foot of the Western hilltop which tapers towards Balakot in the NWFP, is accommodative. It has been built in such a way that its lawns face the river below it. A daily bus service ply between the town and Muzaffarabad. From here upwards, emerges typical Kashmiri living pattern with houses built of wooden logs, most of them double-storeyed.

Curd, cheese, maize and bread along with the Chutney is the palatable diet, the other major diet is rice.   Most people are government employees,rest are in different fields. A large number of government and private institution is working here including one high standard private and two government colleges.

Athmuqam in its geographical structure is a cup like valley with green hills on the four sides. There are also some folk stories about its being a most advanced city, and then its destruction in pre-historic era. It is also narrated that people from different parts of India migrated and inhibated here after abolish of mughal empire. Hiking tracks for surrounding mountains are traced by peoples and tourists.

Lower Neelam (Keran):

At a distance of about 9 Km from Athmuqam, Keran is situated on the right bank of the river Neelum at 1524m above sea level with fascinating scenery. The panoramic lush green valley is profound in fruit and wildlife.

Keran is another beauty spot on the river side with a neat and clean wooden flooring rest house. Its lawns slope down towards the wester bank of the river. The bazaar consists of over a dozen shops with a post office and telephone call office. Commodities are transported to the bazaar from Athmaqam by trucks. The physical feature of Keran resort resembles a broad forehead of a person with thick hair on the head. Stay is more comfortable here. The main attraction for this place is that India is visible on the other side of the river. There is also a small military bridge that connects the two divides, and one can see both Pakistani and Indian soldiers patrolling. AJK Tourism department has a rest house built here as well.

Upper Neelum (Neelum village):

Upper Neelum or Neelum Village is located at a distance of about two and a half kms from Keran. From Karen a link road leads to Neelum village which is one of the most beautiful villages of Neelum Valley.  Neelum villages is also accesable via karen By-pass starts from Athmuqam.

This panoramic lush green village, profound in wild fruit and wildlife, attracts the tourists from every nook & corner of the country. A zoo and park is under construction. Another remarkable feature of this spot is that one can view the entire area of occupied Kashmir from here. Owing to its tourist attraction AJK Tourism Department has launched a development project to convert both the Upper  and Lower Neelum in to a Resort. Due to its importance from Tourism point of view, AJK tourism Department is giving special attention to it.

Dowarian:

Dowarian is situated about 13 kilometers from Neelum at an altitude of 1615 meters. It is surrounded by mountains full of pine trees. About 30 km from here, a track goes deep inside Rattigali Pass, which connects Neelum and Kaghan Valley. A high alpine lake (4000m), Rattigali Lake, also exists in this pass. To get there you need to track or hire mules for the journey. The pride of valley is the large fresh water lake nestled in the mountains. Vast plain is surrounded by the small yet beautiful lake and gushing water. There is a Forest Rest House on the top of the hill and an Angler’s Hut.

Sharda:

Sharda is a breath-taking scenic green spot at an altitude of 1981m .Located at a distance of 30 kilometers from Dowarian. Shardi and Nardi are two mountain peaks overlooking Sharda in the valley, reputedly named after legendary princess Sharda. On the right bank, opposite Sharda, the Neelum is joined by the Surgan Nallah along which a track leads to Nurinar Pass and through it to the Kaghan Valley. Here in Sharda in 9th century the Sharda script was developed.

Sharda is one of the most beautiful places with its lush green planes, smooth flowing river which frozes in sever cold season and serves as passage for people of both sides of the river. The landscape of the valley consists of several small streams, hill side covered with green forest, cultivated land around it. AJK Tourism dept has a modest rest house. Do note that there is no electricity in this area. To reach Sharda, one has to cross a magnificent suspension bridge over Neelum River.  
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Chita Khata Lake:

Chita Khata Lake is located at an altitude of 3,800 meters. Chitta Katha Lake is only accessible in the months of July and August. Common route followed by the tourists is through kel. There is a road from Kel to Shounter Valley. It is better to reach the village UTLI DOMEL at night and stay there. You should proceed forward early in the morning. There is climbing of 5 to 6 hours to reach the lake. You can also make arrangements of horses for travelling from UTLI DOMEL.
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Kel:

A 19 kilometers journey from Sharda upstream takes one to Kel. Kel  is a small valley situated at a height of 2097m. This is another picturesque place in the Neelum Valley. The Shounter Nallah joins river Neelum at this place and leads to Gilgit Agency (Northern Areas), Astore and Deossai plains, over the Shandur at 4420m. The Neelum River flows beside it. 

Kel is also a base camp of mountaineering activities up to “Sarawaali Peak” 6326 meters above sea level and biggest Glaciers (about 25 kms long) which are said to be the highest peak and biggest glacier of Azad Kashmir.

There are some very beautiful high alpine lakes accessible from Kel, which involves 4x4 off-roading and hiking – maybe even renting mules. Buses ply daily on this route in good weather but It is advisable to hire a jeep from Athmaqam for a trip into the Valley. Horses and ponies can also be hired locally for travel to the interior of the Neelum Valley Banks. College, Hospital, Bazar, PCO and a Tourist Motel are available here. The border village about 38 km ahead of Kel, is a fascination yet unexplored. Halmat, Tao Butt. Janawai, and Sardari are the most beautiful places around here.

Arang Kel:

Arang Kel is situated at the hill top near Kel, about 1500 feet ascend from River Neelam.It is also a village full of beautiful sceneries.Beyond this mountain, the next mountain is a part of Indian occupied Kashmir. It is a piece of utmost beauty, one can find in Kashmir.
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Shounter Valley and Lake:

Shounter valley lies in Upper Neelum valley. It can be accessed through a jeep track from Kel which only gets opened for a few months of the year. From Shounter valley, one can cross the Shounter Pass to enter into Astore valley at Rattoo. Shounter lake is a small but very beautiful lake in the Shounter Valley. From this point, one can go to Sarveli peak base camp, chitta katta lake or cross the Shounter pass into Astore.
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Helmet:

The border village about 49 kilometers ahead of Kel is a fascinating but unexplored sight. The area from Kel to Taobat is called the Halmat. Janawai, Sardari and Halmat are the most beautiful places of this area. A tourist rest house has been constructed at Halmat to provide accommodation facilities to the visitors. The drive itself is slow as the road is a dirt track, crossing streams and waterfalls. It almost takes 4 hours to reach this place from Kel. You can also start seeing some glaciers melting into the Neelum River. This is the last hamlet before you reach the LOC.

Tao Butt:

Tao butt is the last station and end point of Neelum valley. Tao Butt is an example of vegetation generosity of the liberal nature. The spot is donned with all delicacies and niceties. Nature flirts here with fantastic environment.

It has a sever season and heavy snow in winter, and winter season continue  about 6 months strarting from October to April end. Often there is no signs of path due to land sliding and flooded water streams. In summer it is a worth place for tourist to visit. Neelum river emerges from here in the valley and continue its journey till Domail. People of this area are hard working, they store their food and food for animal for 4 months and passed their time in homes or go to other areas for working, usually male members of this area go to other areas for winter and earn there and come back in summer to cultivate thier crops.

Tao butt has few red roof huts comprise this town which when seen from a high ground remind you of the calendar pictures of Switzerland.

The area itself is in LOC zone (Line Of Control) which has been created during the ongoing dispute between Pakistan and India. To get here you need to get permission from the Pakistan Army and Original CNIC must be submitted at the Check Post and then on your way back you will collect it.
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Gurase Valley:

Gurase Valley in District Neelum Azad Kashmir is the most captivating but remote and backward area of the Neelum valley situated in the north-east of the Muzaffarbad, the capital city of Azad Kashmir. This area is the heart of  sustainable tourism in Azad Kashmir because of its lush green natural beauty.

It is stippled in many sub-valleys from the Kail to Taubutt. The area is situated at line of control(LOC) between India and Pakistan. The area is full of marvelous flora and fauna and enriched with natural resources like rivers, natural springs, forest and minerals. There is a number of rare species in Gurase Valley which are now at the last breath due to illegal hunting, deforestation and habitat degradation. Govt. of Azad Kashmir has declared the valley as a national park to protect and wise use of Natural resources for the conservation and income generation of local community.

The Park is located in district Neelum, covering an area of 52,817 ha, lying between 2,017m to 4,345m elevation. Neelum River divides the park into two parts while the human population resides on both side of Neelum River in the park area. The park is surrounded by Line of Control in the east, peaks of Qammary heights in the north Astor, Northern areas. The park falls under the Sharda division and Guraze Range of AJK Forest Department. Each of the Range is further divided into Blocks.

The area harbor a number of endangered species like Himalayan Musk Deer, Marmot, Brown Bear and black bear including a number of birds and plants species. Similarly the endangered plant Bermi (Taxus baccata) the source of cancer medicine, Taxol, and a number of medicinal plants like Kuth(Sassuria lappa) are found in the area.

The communities residing in the Park area are mostly depending upon agriculture for their livelihood. But due to heavy snow in winter they could grow the crops only in summer and often they have to found other source of income for them.

They depend upon livestock to fulfill the requirement of meat and milk. After agriculture and livestock, timber logging is the Major industry for local people. Sometime they use to hunt different wild animals and birds to earn their livelihood.

How To Reach:

A paved road runs halfway up the valley, and a 4WD track continues for much of the rest. Buses go from Muzaffarabad at least to Athmaqam, and passenger 4WDs go as far as Kel. In the past the valley has been open up to Kel, but at the time of research foreigners could go no further than Patikha (Pataka), 17km northeast of Muzaffarabad. The following information may be useful when/if travel restrictions for foreigners ease.

From Patika forest near Muzaffarabad one reaches Nosari, 24 miles ahead of Muzaffarabad. Next come Chaliana (height 3,200 feet), Qazi Nag, Barian, Salkhela, Kundal Shahi, Athmaqam on this road.

There is an other approache to the valley. From Kaghan Valley which is linked with it at two points, the Nuri Nari Hali (Pass) and the Ratti Gali and many minor Passes.

Further info, Contact us or email. 

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